Follow Texter Terriers
Supplies: From Shampoo to Grooming Tools
Products We Fine Useful
We are often asked about the different supplies we recommend. We've
been through a variety of products over the years and do have products
we prefer. There are other ways to go, of course, and those will work
just fine, but since you've asked, here's what we specifically use:
(product names are in bold)
Where to find? www.cherrybrook.com; www.petedge.com; www.petco.com; www.petsmart.com. For VetSolutions products, write us,
Explanation of Products and How We Use Them:
A. Cleaning Products
- VetSolutions Aloe and Oatmeal or VetSolutions Universal Medicated Shampoo. Or another general one:Suave shampoo.
It is a basic, easy-to-find shampoo and works well with normal skin
I dilute these with water before using. I have a plastic bowl in the
tub and I put a couple of tablespoons of shampoo in with a couple of
cups of water. I use the dilution to bathe the dog. The shampoo lasts
longer and rinses easier from the Airedale's coat. You want to be sure
to rinse all the shampoo out before finishing.
- *If your dog has itchy skin or
skin issues, see your vet for a recommendation. We do sometimes use
Universal Medicated on basic itchiness problems, but there are other
products that may be more effective depending on the condition of the
skin. T-Lux, for example. But I recommend you visit with your vet first
so he/she can guide you toward something geared for the particular skin
- Short answer: General times - Suave conditioner. If fur is esp. dry or tends to mat - Redkin Heavy Cream or Redkin Butter (expensive, doesn't take much so it lasts a while).
- If you want to use a conditioner on the
dog's furnishings, by all means do. I often do this as well even for
dogs not getting ready for show. It can make the furnishings easier to
comb out. Suave conditioner can be fine. There are conditioners for
dogs they may work just as well. If I don't use Suave, I sometimes use
Redkin's Heavy Cream or Redkin's Butter conditioners. These are
heavier and work great on wiry hair (my own, too).
- VetSolutions Ear Cleaner. You can also visit your vet about getting a similar sort of cleaner.
Beds - Our dogs love beds, of all sorts. The Sherpa beds are easy to
wash and dry though, so I keep that in mind when looking for a bed - how
easy will it be to clean? Crate mats and pads are great if your dog
will use a crate to sleep in. Keep in mind what the dog can chew up.
If it's full of stuffing and your dog tends to chew his beds, you might
skip that particular bed. A straight Sherpa pad is nearly impossible to
shred and eat. (not totally however)
Crates - A large size will work for the dog's life if the Airedale is
AKC standard size. This is sometimes called an S400. Some crate brands
list breed sizes for each. There are two types of crates - the plastic
version and the wire version. We use both. Advantages of the plastic
version - easy to clean, can be put in car easily, is the type airlines
ask for if you travel with the dog. It has complete covering for the
dog with air vents. If the dog needs less stimulation and more quiet
time or privacy, this is a good choice. Advantages of the wire crate -
the dog can see out easily and be more a part of what's going on in the
room. Air circulation is better. This type of crate doesn't transport
easily though. We use the plastic for traveling and the wire for in the
house. Our summers in Texas are hot and the A/C blows through the wire
crate better than the plastic. When shipping a puppy across country -
the airlines recommend that the dog be able to stand up and turn around
with ease. The crate can't be too large however, so with a 10 lb (9
weeks old) puppy, we usually have to get a small crate. This will not
last long as the dog grows. Get a large crate for general use and you
won't have to replace it.
- Dog Food
food brands are not all created equal and if you get a dog from us,
we'll go into this in some detail. We do recommend our owners use a
premium dog food though and products we recommend are:
- Purina Pro Plan (this is what we currently use);
- Purina One, Iams, Science Diet, Eukanuba and Pedigree
- We can also go into more detail on this if you contact us directly (firstname.lastname@example.org).
- If your dog is experiencing health
issues, see your vet on the diet. There are a lot of great dog foods
that can address dietary needs, so don't be afraid to ask.
- Raw Food Diets, Barf Diets - We do
not recommend these. It is quite possible to make up your own dog
food, but you will have to be very mindful of the dog's nutritional
requirements and be sure to make up a balanced diet for the dog. This
will require research
on your part and a running conversation with your vet or another studied
professional on canine nutrition. For our commercial dog food
recommendations: The dog food companies we recommend have done and are
continuing to do research using controlled research formats on canine
nutrition, so you might want to look into their findings.
David and I are both research-minded and stick with studied results
(where controls have been used) to make our decisions.
- We use stainless steel bowls for food and
stainless steel pails for water. There are no-tip versions of the
bowls that are very nice. Stainless steel are easy to clean in the
dishwasher. Dog bowls that are off the ground? Some report using these
and liking them. We use stainless steel bowls that sit on the ground.
- I used rawhides for treats or liver
treats, esp. with training. You may want to test a treat on your dog
first by giving him a little and then seeing if he tolerates it well.
Some products, such as pigs's ears, give our dogs diahhrea, so you might
be on alert for that kind of reaction. But our dogs do like to have
something to chew on, so we recommend treats of some sort to give them
Our reference for this section will be
www.cherrybrook.com. so you can see pictures of the products I list
below. Shop around if you'd like to find the best price.
- A pair of scissors is useful. Thinning
shears are also good for thinning out certain areas, but these are only
necessary if you get into the nitty-gritty of grooming. For most
purposes, a pair of trimming scissors is all you'll need.
- A large size with an arm. Check out 18-038 at cherrybrook.com (under grooming tables) to see a picture of one we'd use.
- Slickers or Pin Brushes work great on the
wiry hair. I prefer a slicker. You'll pull out loose hair and
undercoat nicely with this.
- We use stainless steel or chrome versions
like 14-078. If you get one comb where the teeth are set widely apart
and then more closely, you can work out mats with the wide end and then
finish up with the narrow end. This isn't necessary though - one type
of comb where the teeth are uniformly set is fine, too.
- 11-015 is one type commonly used. A nail
grinder (Dremel tool) is my preference though - it sands the nails
down. I use human nail clippers on the puppies' nails until they get
too thick for the clipper. Then I go on to the sander. Dave uses the
11-015 type mostly. He and his staff sand the nails afterward for a
- Oster is a trusty brand. I've used it
for decades and still prefer it. Oster A5 is what we tend to use. You
can get by with only a couple of blades to do generally grooming. A #8
blade and a #30 blade will work. (The higher the blade number, the
shorter it will cut. The lower numbers leave the hair longer. If a #8
cuts too short, go lower to get the length of hair you want.) Used the 8
for the jacket and you can face work. Use the 30 for getting the hair
out from between the foot pads. Cleaning out between the pads will
reduce the dirt the dog brings into the house.
- If you want the show look or want to remove undercoat before clipping, here's what we use:
- Knives for getting undercoat out - McClellan Knives
(12-003-LC at cherrybrook.com). The yellow-handled knife is used first
for the general removal, then you can switch to the red-handled knife
to remove the even finer undercoat. If you want only one - get the
yellow-handled (coarse) knife. It will do most of the work for everyday
Knives for stripping the coat:
MacKnyfe - 12-007-C; They come in coarse, fine, extra fine and their
handles are blue, yellow, and orange respectively. I use the yellow and
orange handled knives.
- Some people use the Mars Coat Kingto
remove lots of hair fast. I don't use the product. It tends to cut
hair rather than pull it out. For dogs not being shown, this doesn't
matter, but if I want to cut hair quickly, nothing beats a pair of Oster
clippers. That's as fast as it gets. So I either strip or I clip.
Does it matter which you do? If we are not getting a dog ready for show, we clip. It's fast, easy on the dog.
Some people like the stripped look though and I know of owners and
breeders who will strip the dog for its lifetime because they like the
look. For us, time, energy, and convenience lead us to clip dogs that
aren't going to be shown. Choose what you'd like.
- Buckle or Snap Collars
are fine and come in a multitude of patterns. We tend to use the nylon
snap collars and nylon leads. You can put id and rabies vacc. tags on
- Sizes of collars
- Puppies at
around 8-12 weeks use a 10-12" collar. It varies from there as to their
growth. Adults, depending on their size and length of fur around the
neck, use anywhere from a 16" to a 22/24" collar.
- Fit - you should be able to put a couple of fingers under the collar with relative ease. Not so loose that it can slip over the dog's head though - that's the right fit.
- Choke Chain Collars
I'm going to train or go out in public with our dogs, I use a choke
chain and lead. The choke chain gives more control. A dog can easily
back out of a snap/buckle collar if he decides he doesn't want to go
where you are going (into a vet clinic for instance or if he wants to
visit another dog across the walk). So a choke chain gives more
- It is important
to know how to put the collar on and how to use it in correction
though. You want to loop the chain in a way that it forms a letter "P"
when you are looking at it. Then, you slip it over the dog's neck as it
still forms a "P" as you look at it. This puts the loop such that if
you walk the dog on your LEFT, there is slack in the collar. When
communicating with the dog, you will give the collar a quick tug and
release. Often the sound of the slide on the collar is enough to get
the dog's attention. For training and puppies, you will have to tug
enough that the dog feels it. Often, if the dog wants to take off
without notice, the collar will correct for you as the lead stretches.
Be sure to read about the choke chain and get instruction, if possible,
on how to use it. It's not a choking devise in the true sense of the
and can seriously hurt a dog's throat/neck if you yank on it too hard.
That's not the purpose and does nothing to communicate to the dog in a
way you want. For choke chains, you want an inch or so of slack when
the collar is on the dog. it should be somewhat loose so you can make a
correction when necessary and then release so there is no tension on
the dog's neck when it's not being corrected. Not so loose that it can
slip off the dog's head if he leans down, however.
- Prong Collars - We don't recommend these.
Unless you are working under a trainer's recommendation and
supervision. I've never used one on one of our dogs in 20+ years.
So... If you have an especially aggressive dog, I can see where a
trainer might suggest one. Still - be careful with this product.
- Flexileads - I wish they were extinct!
- HATE FLEXILEADS and have never seen an owner have any sort of control with one of these.
If you don't mind your dog wandering all over kingdom come when you're
out and and about, by all means, go for this product. But if I'm
walking with my dog, I don't want him walking into my path or wandering
over to a tree while I'm trying to go somewhere. I love (sarcasm) to
see people bring their dogs into the vet clinic with a flexi-lead. The
dog is out of control, the owner is out of control, total chaos. Then
in comes a cat and the dog wants to get at it and the dog's owner has no
control. More chaos. Hate the flexi-lead!!!!
- Shampoos: VetSolutions Aloe and Oatmeal; Universal Medicated Shampoo; Or Suave Shampoo
- Conditioners: Suave or a Redkin Heavy Duty Conditioner like Heavy Cream or Butter
- Ear Cleaner: VetSolutions Ear Cleanser
- Crate: S400 or a Large Breed Plastic Crate or Large Breed Wire Crate. PetSmart or PetLand sells all.
- Bed: Sherpa Products. Want a washable surface.
- Bowls: Stainless Steel
- Treats: Safe Rawhide Chews
- Grooming Supplies: Clippers - Oster A5 with #8 and #30 blades.
Stainless steel comb and pin brush. Nails: Dremel for sanding or
standard dog nail clipper
Stripping Knives: McClellan fine and medium.
- Leads and Collars: Nylon products. 8 week old pup - 10-12";
mature dog-16-22" depending on neck diameter. Choke collars - same inch
size for mature dog. Measure dog's neck otherwise.